April 13th, 2012 by Alice Medrich
Chatting with a serious documentary filmmaker decades before there was SO much food on TV, I expressed the opinion that the processes involved with chocolate and dessert making would look good on film. She didn’t really get it! I explained how visual it all was: luxurious chocolate glaze flowing over a cake, up-close brush stokes marbleizing that glaze with milk chocolate so it looks like Italian or French art paper, deckle-edge ruffles of pure chocolate pealing off of a sheet pan, even the technique of beating and folding egg whites properly, lovingly, expertly, into a chocolaty batter. I thought it could be instructional andexquisitely beautiful. She looked dubious. I kid you not.
Decades later we have endless food TV—so what else is new?
Recently my publisher proposed that I teach video classes to support the launch of Sinfully Easy Delicious Desserts (out next month, btw). We discussed the recipes during a very enthusiastic conference call with the lifestyle editor at craftsy.com, who would be our partner in this video adventure. In the back of my mind, I was vaguely disappointed. I was finally doing video, but with the wrong content! I love my new book, but Sang An’s photography is already amazing, and the whole point of Sinfully Easy is that no one needs video to succeed with the recipes!
Then a miracle happened. The Craftsy team “remembered” that their audience of passionate crafters and DIY-ers loves ambitious projects and are eager to learn technique. They want to learn skills, not just recipes. Sinfully Easy was too damn —easy (yay!)—and thus not ideal for video. Would I consider scrapping the original plan and coming up with a list of more challenging desserts?
It took me three minutes to get a new menu on paper.
February 6th, 2012 by Alice Medrich
I make genoise twice a year whether I like it or not. I make it when I teach at Tante Marie’s Cooking School
www.tantemarie.com because Mary Risley (Tante Marie) believes that all aspiring professional culinary students should be able to make genoise. Despite its old school reputation, I
do like genoise. And I agree with Mary, though I’m not sure working pastry chefs in this country actually make it very often.
The problem with genoise is that Americans like super moist cake and genoise was never meant to be moist. The other problem is that, knowing that genoise is not meant to be moist, many chefs make it inedibly dry—which perpetuates the bad rep for genoise. I don’t accept inedibly dry genoise. I appreciate the usefulness of a cake that is dry enough to be soaked with flavorful liquids, but I pride myself on nibble-worthy genoise, one that soaks well but might not really need all of the usual primping, poking, soaking, and fussing that goes on in classical patisserie.
Meanwhile—and this is the part I love— the production of good genoise is an ode to technique, a paean to the details that make a difference. I privately think it separates the women from the girls…
With only four ingredients plus salt and vanilla, you can mix up a genoise in less time than it takes to preheat the oven. Simple right? But if you don’t measure correctly (please buy a scale) or fold properly, or if you don’t know how to prevent tiny flour balls or a rubbery bottom layer, then sister you are cooked.
To raise the stakes still higher, I like to use the smallest weight of flour possible. This means that there can be no unnecessary moisture in the batter or the cake will sink in the center as it cools. To that end I use clarified or browned butter or ghee—and I’ve even used olive oil. And, the quantity of flour called for in the recipe is correct only for the type of flour called for. If you use flour other than the unbleached all purpose flour called for, you may need to adjust the quantity of it to get my perfect cake.
Here’s a preview of the chocolate genoise that I’ll make at Tante Marie’s Cooking School on the day after tomorrow, February 8th. I will use it to build a spectacular cake wrapped in a sheet of chocolate and filled with rummy bananas, bittersweet chocolate mousse, and whipped crèmefraîche, and I’ll top it with chocolate ruffles. You can do something similar with your genoise, or you can just nibble the cake plain with your coffee!
Or, you can click on the link above and sign up for the class. Mary always leaves a few spaces open for the public.
ALICE’S CHOCOLATE GENOISE
I urge you to use a scale for this recipe and check out the notes below for tips and greater understanding of what’s going on in the recipe.
1.5 ounces (3 tablespoons) hot clarified unsalted butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1.6 ounces (1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sifted) unbleached all-purpose flour
1.2 ounces (3/8 cup unsifted) unsweetened cocoa powder (see notes)
4.3 ounces (2/3 cup) sugar
Electric mixer with whisk attachment
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F with a rack in the lower third. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper. Do not grease the sides of the pan.
Combine clarified butter and vanilla in a 4-cup stainless steel bowl and keep it hot until needed by setting it in a pan of almost simmering water. Or put it in a microwave safe bowl and be prepared to zap it just before using it.
Whisk the flour and cocoa together thoroughly and sift it (or shake it through a sieve) three times and return it to the sifter/sieve and set aside.
In a stainless steel mixing bowl (I use my 5 quart Kitchen Aid mixer bowl) whisk the eggs, sugar, and salt to blend. Set the bowl on a low flame and stir (sweeping the sides and bottom of the bowl constantly to prevent scrambling) just until the eggs are lukewarm to the touch.
Remove the eggs from the heat and beat them at high speed with an electric mixer until they have cooled, tripled in bulk, and have the texture of very softly whipped cream (a ribbon of batter should dissolve very slowly on the surface of the batter).
Sift about one-third of the flour mixture over the eggs. Fold with a large rubber spatula until the flour is almost blended into the batter. Repeat with half of the remaining flour. Fold in the last third of the flour. Add about 1 cup of batter to the hot butter. Fold until blended. Scrape the buttery batter over the remaining batter and fold just until blended. Scrape the batter into the pan.
Bake until cake springs back when pressed gently with fingers, 25-30 minutes. Set the pan on a rack to cool.
At your convenience (the cake can be warm or completely cool), run a small spatula around the inside of the pan, pressing against the sides of the pan to avoid tearing the cake. Invert the pan to remove the cake and peel off the parchment liner. Turn the cake right side up to finish cooling. The cake should be completely cool before filling, frosting or storing. The cake may be wrapped airtight and stored at room temperature for 2 days, or frozen up to 3 months.
Cocoa Powder? I like Scharffen Berger Natural Cocoa Powder. You can use a Dutch process cocoa if you prefer it.
Flour balls in your genoise? These are prevented by whisking the cocoa and flour together and then sifting the mixture a few times before sifting it into the batter, as described in the recipe. For plain genoise, (without cocoa) whisk 2 or 3 tablespoons of the sugar from the recipe into the flour before sifting several times. Interspersing the grains of flour with either cocoa or a little sugar plus fluffing and aerating the mixture separates the grains of flour (to prevent clumping) and makes it easier to fold it into the egg foam without deflating it.
Rubbery bottoms on your genoise? This is prevented by folding a little of the batter into hot butter before folding everything together, as decribed in the recipe.
Awkward folding? If your mixer bowl is tall and narrow (like Kitchenaid mixer bowls), you might want to transfer the egg foam into a larger wider bowl to make it easier to fold in the flour and butter.
